John Wright - Forager in Chief Extraordinare 

Yesterday, was an uncharacteristically early start for me. I had to be in the New Forest for 10.30am at a spot circled in red ink on an OS map. I had half hoped that this indicated there would be a vast bright red fence encircling the area, as my sense of direction isn't one of my strong points. I don't have sat nav or a fancy phone, so I rely on a map, which is challenging when you are as long sighted as me. I can't read a map unless I put my specs on, and I can't see to drive with them! End result is countless stops en route usually, but this wasnt possible as my route took me down the M3 and M27, and stopping isn't a good idea, especially if the long arm of the law spot you.

Without too much problem however I found myself in Brockenhurst and just had to find my way to the location in the Forest. It was a truly glorious day, that had started out wet at home, but now was wall to wall sunshine. I wouldn't be needing the cashmere sweater and waterproofs.

I set off down a track that I thought would lead to my destination, and encountered many pot poles big enough to swallow my car. There were lots of cyclists and  horse riders around too, and with the windows down, and the gentle lowing of some cattle shading themselves under an oak stand, all seemed well with the world.

I wasn't quite sure if I was on the right track, so when confronted by a fork in the road, I stopped to consult the map again. In my rear view mirror I saw a car behind me and as it pulled alongside, I recognised the driver; John Wright, of River Cottage fame.

Hurrah! I wasn't miles from where I needed to be after all, and pulled in behind him and followed him to our destination; a clearing in the Forest that permitted parking.  Before long a small group of disciples had gathered, and after introductions, and nips of home-made blackberry whisky and cherry brandy made by John, being consumed, apparently this is an essential part of learning to be a good fungi foragers - we set about our day long ramble in the woods.

The object of the day was to learn to identify the various mushrooms and toadstools we came across, and we came across dozens.  At first John asked us to just roam and call out, so that everyone could gather, and see the fungi we had located in its habitat.  John explained the importance of using a knife to dig under the fungi, taking some of the mycelium too, to aid identification, because it is important to observe colour changes that may be the difference between a very nice entrée, and several hours sat on the toilet!

He used both Latin and common names were appropriate, and pointed out the different characteristics of each species. Brittle gills, hedgehogs, tubes and a multitude of others.  I had obviously seen fungi before, but I had never really taken on board how varied they were.  Their fragile, ephemeral nature became all the more intriguing, and I suspect they will become one of my mini-obsessions. I have a tendency to get obsessed with a new subject if it really pricks my interest and go on a learning-fest. I often refer to this as gnosomania - a term I created to describe the habit.

By lunchtime I was very definitely at the point of information overload, and was glad to be able to retire and rest a while, and just let the sense of place wash over me.  I chatted with my fellow foragers, and was surprised how far some of them had come to learn.

We returned to the Forest having discovered some 50 species already, with a definite emphasis on discovering things that were suitable to eat. One lady went off with her baby, and returned with a basket full of sloes! Me, (smug) I found a healthy quantity of Chanterelles,  Terracotta and White Hedgehogs, and Saffron Milk Caps, all of which were added to the group edible basket for later.

Around 4ish we found our way back to were we had left the cars, and John produced a small stove and frying pan. One of the men volunteered to be chef. Why is always men who like to do the outdoor cooking, but you can never get them to do it indoors? Some butter was found, and a tube of garlic paste appeared from another boot. Talk about going well prepared!

We all sat down  in an impromptu fairy ring, and watched as John, checked over every single mushroom in the edible basket. Having removed a couple, he gave up permission to  clean and prepare them, whilst he went of to ID all the mushrooms we had found that were inedible or toxic. He later laid these out on a very attractive blue batik cloth, with post-it notes attached to them, so we could see exactly what was what.

We decided to cook each species separately, as there we several mushrooms that most of us had never seen, let alone tasted, and it would give us an idea of whether we liked them, and whether to forage for them in future.  First up were the Chanterelle, I really enjoyed these, and will certainly look for them again.  Next came the Saffron Milk Caps, which gave most of us the heebie-geebies, as they are prone to maggots; larvae of the fungus gnat. Thankfully most were protein free, although we did find a couple that had some in.  I found it quite a mental challenge to eat these once cooked, but have to say found them really enjoyable too. Ceps, followed, with a parasol, some amethyst deceivers, and several others we had found in much smaller quantities.

By now it was well past 5, and the day in the woods on my feet and the early start was catching up with me, so I thanked John for a wonderful day, and said farewell to my fellow foragers.

Would I go again? Oh yes, John is as amusing as he is informed, and it was a joy to learn in such a convivial environment.